Rediscovering Lost Indian Cuisines

In recent years, culinary historians, chefs, and food enthusiasts have been rediscovering these hidden gems. Dishes like the Assamese Patot diya maas (fish wrapped in banana leaves) or the royal Mughal dish Sheermal have begun making their way back into the conversation. Chefs like Thomas Zacharias, known for his focus on regional Indian food, and the late Jiggs Kalra, who championed the documentation of Mughal cuisine, have played pivotal roles in this revival. Let’s delve into the significance of these forgotten dishes and explore recipes that encapsulate India’s rich culinary past.

TRIHIVE

Team BANI

11/26/20243 min read

Indian cuisine is an intricate tapestry of flavours, cultures, and traditions that span centuries. However, in the race towards modernisation and globalisation, many regional and ancient recipes have been overshadowed, nearly forgotten by the younger generation. These lost culinary treasures tell stories of the land, seasons, and communities that birthed them. Reviving such cuisines isn't just about cooking; it is about reconnecting with India's roots and celebrating a gastronomic heritage that has shaped identities.

The Importance of Rediscovering Lost Indian Cuisines

Preserving Cultural Identity
Each recipe carries stories of its origin, whether it’s the geographical influences on the ingredients or the socio-political events that shaped the cooking methods. Rediscovering these recipes is a way to preserve India’s diverse cultural tapestry.
Revitalising Local Agriculture
Many forgotten dishes are centred around indigenous ingredients, such as millets, heirloom grains, or rare herbs. Reviving these recipes promotes sustainable farming practices, helping local farmers cultivate ancient crops that are often more climate-resilient.
Nutritional Significance
Traditional cuisines often emphasised balanced meals with natural ingredients. For instance, Ragi Mudde from Karnataka, a simple finger millet dish, is a powerhouse of nutrients and has been part of the diet for centuries. Reintroducing these foods can combat modern health issues like diabetes and obesity.
Gastronomic Tourism
Regions that celebrate their culinary heritage attract travellers seeking unique food experiences. Initiatives like the Savour India Culinary Tours promote regional cuisines, creating a global appreciation for India's lost recipes.

Lost Recipes and Their Stories

Bhutte Ka Kees (Madhya Pradesh)
This humble dish from Indore is a blend of grated corn, milk, and spices. A street food delicacy today, it was once a staple dish during monsoons.
Recipe (Chef: Ranveer Brar)
- Grated corn kernels cooked with mustard seeds, turmeric, and green chillies.
- Add milk and let the mixture simmer until thick.
- Garnish with fresh coriander and serve warm.
Shufta (Kashmir)
A dessert from Kashmir, Shufta is a rich mix of dry fruits, sugar, and spices like saffron and cardamom, traditionally served during weddings and festivals.
Recipe (Chef: Meherwan Irani)
- Soak almonds, cashews, and raisins in warm water.
- Cook with ghee, saffron-infused water, sugar, and a pinch of cinnamon.
- Serve warm or at room temperature.

Key Players in Reviving Culinary Heritage

Thomas Zacharias
Formerly the executive chef at The Bombay Canteen, he has travelled across India documenting and cooking lesser-known regional recipes. His Instagram series, “India on My Plate,” highlights the diversity of Indian cuisine.
Manjit Gill
Chef Gill has been instrumental in reviving Ayurvedic cooking and royal recipes, particularly from Punjab and Rajasthan.
Anahita Dhondy
A champion of Parsi cuisine, Dhondy has been reviving family recipes, bringing the lesser-known nuances of this vibrant community to the forefront.

Challenges in Reviving Lost Indian Cuisines

Urbanisation and Changing Lifestyles
The fast-paced modern lifestyle has led to the neglect of slow-cooked and intricate recipes.
Commercialisation of Food
Street food and fast food have overshadowed traditional recipes, making them inaccessible in mainstream dining.
Documentation Issues
Many recipes are passed down orally and lack written documentation, leading to their gradual disappearance.

Strategies to Reintroduce Lost Cuisines

Culinary Festivals
Events like the Lost Recipes Festival bring together chefs and food enthusiasts to celebrate traditional dishes.
Digital Storytelling
Platforms like Instagram and YouTube have enabled chefs to share stories and recipes of lost dishes, reaching a global audience.
Incorporating Dishes in Fine Dining
Restaurants like Indian Accent in Delhi have reinterpreted traditional recipes in a modern context, making them appealing to a new generation.

Reviving the Past for the Future

The rediscovery of lost Indian cuisines isn’t just about food—it’s about honouring the wisdom of generations before us. As modern India surges forward, there’s immense value in pausing and revisiting these culinary traditions. Chefs, food historians, and home cooks must collaborate to preserve this heritage, ensuring that future generations inherit not just recipes, but the stories and values they embody.

By embracing these lost treasures, India can celebrate its diversity while offering the world a taste of its timeless flavours.

This journey into lost Indian cuisines is just a start. Have a forgotten recipe you’d like to share? Reach out via our website. Together, we can keep these stories alive.